Helpful tools for Row by Row 2018
Perfect Circles die cut templates
Roxanne's Glue-Baste-It syringe bottle or Dip & Dab applicator
Mary Ellen's Best Press spray sizing
Frixion vanishing marker
Presencia Pearl Cotton 8 wt.
Lo Ran Sashiko gold eye needles
Wash-Away Applique Sheets
Bohin Glue Pen
Cut-Rite Heavy Duty Freezer Paper
Aurifil 50 wt.
Aurifil 80 wt.
Making Circles & Tree Trunk Shape--Piece by Piece Row by Row 2018
Turning under the edges of your circle fabrics for various applique projects is easy! There are several tools available to simplify the process, and the payoff is worth it. You can achieve great dimension and a lovely finished look with this method. See the end of this tutorial for optional methods for turning under the edges of your trunk shape.
Step 1 = Cut out circles from card stock or template plastic or use the die-cut Perfect Circles by Karen Kay Buckley. Draw circles using your templates onto the wrong side of your fabric (if there is one). Kona Solids do not have a right or wrong side. Frixion pens are handy for this as the marks will disappear with your pressing. Leave a bit of space between each circle, at least ½”.
Step 2 = Cut out your circles adding in your seam allowance, usually about ¼” or less.
Step 3 = Use a single strand of regular sewing thread (such as a 50 wt. cotton) on a hand sewing needle of your choice, and knot the end. Do a running stitch in the center of your seam allowance, the smaller the better for even gathers and fewer jags in your curves.
Step 4 = Lay your template back on your fabric and pull the thread, gathering around the template.
Step 5 = Spritz with Best Press or other spray starch or sizing.
Step 6 = Press for a few seconds with an iron through the template using a Wool setting. If you are using Perfect Circles, they are made of heat resistant Mylar and can stand the heat. Paper templates can be used with a cotton setting as well and are reusable, even if they get damp from the starch. They can start to lose the smooth edge after a few uses and produce more wonky circles.
Step 7 = Remove the template after cooling for a few seconds. Press again to reset the fold. Clip excess thread, leaving the tail behind the circle.
Step 8 = Layer circles and pin in the center so that you can fold back half at a time against the pin.
Step 9 = Flip back and apply tiny dots of glue along the rough edge of the fabric, not near the fold of the fabric. Roxanne’s Glue-Baste-It comes in various applicator bottles. The syringe style allows you to apply tiny dots but the other styles all work well too. This product means that you will not have to fuss with getting poked or have pins come out while you work, and it dries quickly so that you can handle the circles in about 5 minutes.
The back stitch is made easily by traveling back a step to the end of the previous stitch, and directing your needle forward the distance of two stitches; this creates a more solid outline without visible fabric between the stitches.
Step 2= Turn upside down on the non-fusible (non-sparkly) side of Washaway Applique Sheet material or the non-coated side of freezer paper and trace. This will create a mirror image of the tree trunk which is necessary when the template is used behind the shape fabric. Cut out on the line.
Step 6 = Clip the curves just up to the edge of the paper but not into it. You may need more in the steepest of curves and fewer as they become more gradual close to straight areas.
Step 7 = If using Washaway Applique Sheet material, you can leave the paper in place even after sewing. Do not use Best Press. Using a water soluble glue stick such as the Bohin Glue Pen, apply a light skiff of glue close to, but not right up to the edge of the paper, and press your fabric over the edge into it. Work your way around all edges of the shape. Clip away any excess at the points. It is ok to round them off however you see fit! You can even remove them completely and make a straight trunk that goes all the way to the ground or bottom edge of your row where it can be covered by the binding.